Ways to power an Arduino from 24 VDC











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4
down vote

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I want to power an Arduino (Wemos D1 Mini) with 5 or 3.3 V from my garage door opener, which has 24 VDC available.



As far as I understand, this can be solved in the following ways:




  1. Step down buck converter

  2. Linear voltage regulator

  3. Voltage divider circuit


What are the pros/cons of each of these?



I'm concerned about heat, and I don't want to burn down the garage. I haven't measured how much current my Arduino draws, but I guess it's very little like 250 mA or less(?). I'm only using the built-in Wi-Fi module and no external sensors/relays.










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  • 2




    Hi and Welcome. It would be better to not "guess" - can you measure? A voltage divider is never recommended unless you at least know your load current and the load current is VERY stable.
    – mike65535
    10 hours ago










  • The acronym "COTS" may be helpful to you.
    – Harper
    5 hours ago















up vote
4
down vote

favorite












I want to power an Arduino (Wemos D1 Mini) with 5 or 3.3 V from my garage door opener, which has 24 VDC available.



As far as I understand, this can be solved in the following ways:




  1. Step down buck converter

  2. Linear voltage regulator

  3. Voltage divider circuit


What are the pros/cons of each of these?



I'm concerned about heat, and I don't want to burn down the garage. I haven't measured how much current my Arduino draws, but I guess it's very little like 250 mA or less(?). I'm only using the built-in Wi-Fi module and no external sensors/relays.










share|improve this question









New contributor




Mats Faugli is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
















  • 2




    Hi and Welcome. It would be better to not "guess" - can you measure? A voltage divider is never recommended unless you at least know your load current and the load current is VERY stable.
    – mike65535
    10 hours ago










  • The acronym "COTS" may be helpful to you.
    – Harper
    5 hours ago













up vote
4
down vote

favorite









up vote
4
down vote

favorite











I want to power an Arduino (Wemos D1 Mini) with 5 or 3.3 V from my garage door opener, which has 24 VDC available.



As far as I understand, this can be solved in the following ways:




  1. Step down buck converter

  2. Linear voltage regulator

  3. Voltage divider circuit


What are the pros/cons of each of these?



I'm concerned about heat, and I don't want to burn down the garage. I haven't measured how much current my Arduino draws, but I guess it's very little like 250 mA or less(?). I'm only using the built-in Wi-Fi module and no external sensors/relays.










share|improve this question









New contributor




Mats Faugli is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











I want to power an Arduino (Wemos D1 Mini) with 5 or 3.3 V from my garage door opener, which has 24 VDC available.



As far as I understand, this can be solved in the following ways:




  1. Step down buck converter

  2. Linear voltage regulator

  3. Voltage divider circuit


What are the pros/cons of each of these?



I'm concerned about heat, and I don't want to burn down the garage. I haven't measured how much current my Arduino draws, but I guess it's very little like 250 mA or less(?). I'm only using the built-in Wi-Fi module and no external sensors/relays.







resistors voltage-regulator voltage-divider buck heat






share|improve this question









New contributor




Mats Faugli is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











share|improve this question









New contributor




Mats Faugli is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









share|improve this question




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edited 31 mins ago









Peter Mortensen

1,58031422




1,58031422






New contributor




Mats Faugli is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









asked 11 hours ago









Mats Faugli

232




232




New contributor




Mats Faugli is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





New contributor





Mats Faugli is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.






Mats Faugli is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.








  • 2




    Hi and Welcome. It would be better to not "guess" - can you measure? A voltage divider is never recommended unless you at least know your load current and the load current is VERY stable.
    – mike65535
    10 hours ago










  • The acronym "COTS" may be helpful to you.
    – Harper
    5 hours ago














  • 2




    Hi and Welcome. It would be better to not "guess" - can you measure? A voltage divider is never recommended unless you at least know your load current and the load current is VERY stable.
    – mike65535
    10 hours ago










  • The acronym "COTS" may be helpful to you.
    – Harper
    5 hours ago








2




2




Hi and Welcome. It would be better to not "guess" - can you measure? A voltage divider is never recommended unless you at least know your load current and the load current is VERY stable.
– mike65535
10 hours ago




Hi and Welcome. It would be better to not "guess" - can you measure? A voltage divider is never recommended unless you at least know your load current and the load current is VERY stable.
– mike65535
10 hours ago












The acronym "COTS" may be helpful to you.
– Harper
5 hours ago




The acronym "COTS" may be helpful to you.
– Harper
5 hours ago










3 Answers
3






active

oldest

votes

















up vote
10
down vote



accepted











  1. This is the most efficient solution, will provide good conversion rate but is a little bit more complex to do and also more expensive. Although you can find modules that are already soldered with components saving you the trouble of calculating everything.


  2. This is less efficient, it basically acts as a regulated resistor, dissipating the power you don't use through heating. Only need 3 components usually, the voltage regulator and 2 capacitors and it is cheaper than 1.


  3. Won't work for you, voltage divider is not regulated and depends on the load, thus the resulting voltage may vary.



For your case, I would buy a DC/DC buck converter module already assembled like this one.



Note there are also capacitor based voltage converters.






share|improve this answer























  • Don't you think #2 will not be feasible at all as well?
    – MaNyYaCk
    11 hours ago










  • Yes of course it's feasible, it's just less power efficient.
    – Damien
    11 hours ago






  • 7




    That linear regulator would be dissipating like five watts. A good, well-installed heatsink would be necessary, and even then I'd worry about airflow depending on the case.
    – Sneftel
    8 hours ago


















up vote
4
down vote













One point to consider between choosing a DC-DC buck converter or a linear regulator is the quality of the output. Because of how they work DC converters will always have some amount of high frequency ripple on the output while linear regulators are extremely smooth.



So, DC converters are very efficient, but noisy, and linear regulators are very smooth, but inefficient (they basically "waste" the voltage difference as heat; stepping down 24V→5V a very large amount of heat).



Whether the ripple matters or whether you can smooth out the DC converter output enough depends on the device you're powering. In your case, an Arduino with no sensors, it doesn't really matter that the power rail is somewhat noisy.



But if other cases if you have sensors that depend on exact input voltage, or other devices that are sensitive to ripple it may matter. With very sensitive devices you might even have to use a combination of a DC converter to drop the voltage down to close to your target, and then use a low dropout linear regulator to get the final stable voltage without losing a lot of efficiency in the linear stage (since it's only a small step down, instead of a large step down).



Option 3 doesn't work at all. It combines all the disadvantages of linear regulator inefficiency (you're dissipating the voltage difference in the resistors) with an unregulated output voltage that varies depending on the load. The load will vary considerably depending on what the Arduino is doing, and especially whether the WiFi module is sending data or not.






share|improve this answer























  • This is correct, but to be picky: It does not really answer the question, but only parts of it
    – Jounathaen
    8 hours ago










  • Is that better now, @Jounathaen?
    – tylisirn
    7 hours ago










  • Shouldn't ripple on a DC supply be fairly easy to correct? AC guy talking here. @Jounathaen Better a good half answer, than a good half answer and a shabby half answer that's only there for statutory reasons.
    – Harper
    3 hours ago


















up vote
0
down vote













I would suggest you to go with DC-DC buck converter.
I have mentioned a link here
https://www.itead.cc/lm2596-dc-dc-buck-converter-step-down-power-module-output-1-25v-35v.html
[This is an LM2596 DC-DC buck converter step-down power module with high-precision potentiometer, capable of driving a load up to 3A with high efficiency, which can work with Iteaduino UNO, other mainboards and basic modules. When the output current keeps greater than 2.5A (or output power greater than 10W), please add a heat sink on it.]
If you feel this PCB breakout module is big, you will also get LM2596 IC's you can add them in your own PCB.






share|improve this answer





















  • This is probably a good advice for the project, but the question was about the pros/cons of the three approaches. Your do not really answer the question here.
    – Jounathaen
    8 hours ago











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3 Answers
3






active

oldest

votes








3 Answers
3






active

oldest

votes









active

oldest

votes






active

oldest

votes








up vote
10
down vote



accepted











  1. This is the most efficient solution, will provide good conversion rate but is a little bit more complex to do and also more expensive. Although you can find modules that are already soldered with components saving you the trouble of calculating everything.


  2. This is less efficient, it basically acts as a regulated resistor, dissipating the power you don't use through heating. Only need 3 components usually, the voltage regulator and 2 capacitors and it is cheaper than 1.


  3. Won't work for you, voltage divider is not regulated and depends on the load, thus the resulting voltage may vary.



For your case, I would buy a DC/DC buck converter module already assembled like this one.



Note there are also capacitor based voltage converters.






share|improve this answer























  • Don't you think #2 will not be feasible at all as well?
    – MaNyYaCk
    11 hours ago










  • Yes of course it's feasible, it's just less power efficient.
    – Damien
    11 hours ago






  • 7




    That linear regulator would be dissipating like five watts. A good, well-installed heatsink would be necessary, and even then I'd worry about airflow depending on the case.
    – Sneftel
    8 hours ago















up vote
10
down vote



accepted











  1. This is the most efficient solution, will provide good conversion rate but is a little bit more complex to do and also more expensive. Although you can find modules that are already soldered with components saving you the trouble of calculating everything.


  2. This is less efficient, it basically acts as a regulated resistor, dissipating the power you don't use through heating. Only need 3 components usually, the voltage regulator and 2 capacitors and it is cheaper than 1.


  3. Won't work for you, voltage divider is not regulated and depends on the load, thus the resulting voltage may vary.



For your case, I would buy a DC/DC buck converter module already assembled like this one.



Note there are also capacitor based voltage converters.






share|improve this answer























  • Don't you think #2 will not be feasible at all as well?
    – MaNyYaCk
    11 hours ago










  • Yes of course it's feasible, it's just less power efficient.
    – Damien
    11 hours ago






  • 7




    That linear regulator would be dissipating like five watts. A good, well-installed heatsink would be necessary, and even then I'd worry about airflow depending on the case.
    – Sneftel
    8 hours ago













up vote
10
down vote



accepted







up vote
10
down vote



accepted







  1. This is the most efficient solution, will provide good conversion rate but is a little bit more complex to do and also more expensive. Although you can find modules that are already soldered with components saving you the trouble of calculating everything.


  2. This is less efficient, it basically acts as a regulated resistor, dissipating the power you don't use through heating. Only need 3 components usually, the voltage regulator and 2 capacitors and it is cheaper than 1.


  3. Won't work for you, voltage divider is not regulated and depends on the load, thus the resulting voltage may vary.



For your case, I would buy a DC/DC buck converter module already assembled like this one.



Note there are also capacitor based voltage converters.






share|improve this answer















  1. This is the most efficient solution, will provide good conversion rate but is a little bit more complex to do and also more expensive. Although you can find modules that are already soldered with components saving you the trouble of calculating everything.


  2. This is less efficient, it basically acts as a regulated resistor, dissipating the power you don't use through heating. Only need 3 components usually, the voltage regulator and 2 capacitors and it is cheaper than 1.


  3. Won't work for you, voltage divider is not regulated and depends on the load, thus the resulting voltage may vary.



For your case, I would buy a DC/DC buck converter module already assembled like this one.



Note there are also capacitor based voltage converters.







share|improve this answer














share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer








edited 11 hours ago

























answered 11 hours ago









Damien

1,489214




1,489214












  • Don't you think #2 will not be feasible at all as well?
    – MaNyYaCk
    11 hours ago










  • Yes of course it's feasible, it's just less power efficient.
    – Damien
    11 hours ago






  • 7




    That linear regulator would be dissipating like five watts. A good, well-installed heatsink would be necessary, and even then I'd worry about airflow depending on the case.
    – Sneftel
    8 hours ago


















  • Don't you think #2 will not be feasible at all as well?
    – MaNyYaCk
    11 hours ago










  • Yes of course it's feasible, it's just less power efficient.
    – Damien
    11 hours ago






  • 7




    That linear regulator would be dissipating like five watts. A good, well-installed heatsink would be necessary, and even then I'd worry about airflow depending on the case.
    – Sneftel
    8 hours ago
















Don't you think #2 will not be feasible at all as well?
– MaNyYaCk
11 hours ago




Don't you think #2 will not be feasible at all as well?
– MaNyYaCk
11 hours ago












Yes of course it's feasible, it's just less power efficient.
– Damien
11 hours ago




Yes of course it's feasible, it's just less power efficient.
– Damien
11 hours ago




7




7




That linear regulator would be dissipating like five watts. A good, well-installed heatsink would be necessary, and even then I'd worry about airflow depending on the case.
– Sneftel
8 hours ago




That linear regulator would be dissipating like five watts. A good, well-installed heatsink would be necessary, and even then I'd worry about airflow depending on the case.
– Sneftel
8 hours ago












up vote
4
down vote













One point to consider between choosing a DC-DC buck converter or a linear regulator is the quality of the output. Because of how they work DC converters will always have some amount of high frequency ripple on the output while linear regulators are extremely smooth.



So, DC converters are very efficient, but noisy, and linear regulators are very smooth, but inefficient (they basically "waste" the voltage difference as heat; stepping down 24V→5V a very large amount of heat).



Whether the ripple matters or whether you can smooth out the DC converter output enough depends on the device you're powering. In your case, an Arduino with no sensors, it doesn't really matter that the power rail is somewhat noisy.



But if other cases if you have sensors that depend on exact input voltage, or other devices that are sensitive to ripple it may matter. With very sensitive devices you might even have to use a combination of a DC converter to drop the voltage down to close to your target, and then use a low dropout linear regulator to get the final stable voltage without losing a lot of efficiency in the linear stage (since it's only a small step down, instead of a large step down).



Option 3 doesn't work at all. It combines all the disadvantages of linear regulator inefficiency (you're dissipating the voltage difference in the resistors) with an unregulated output voltage that varies depending on the load. The load will vary considerably depending on what the Arduino is doing, and especially whether the WiFi module is sending data or not.






share|improve this answer























  • This is correct, but to be picky: It does not really answer the question, but only parts of it
    – Jounathaen
    8 hours ago










  • Is that better now, @Jounathaen?
    – tylisirn
    7 hours ago










  • Shouldn't ripple on a DC supply be fairly easy to correct? AC guy talking here. @Jounathaen Better a good half answer, than a good half answer and a shabby half answer that's only there for statutory reasons.
    – Harper
    3 hours ago















up vote
4
down vote













One point to consider between choosing a DC-DC buck converter or a linear regulator is the quality of the output. Because of how they work DC converters will always have some amount of high frequency ripple on the output while linear regulators are extremely smooth.



So, DC converters are very efficient, but noisy, and linear regulators are very smooth, but inefficient (they basically "waste" the voltage difference as heat; stepping down 24V→5V a very large amount of heat).



Whether the ripple matters or whether you can smooth out the DC converter output enough depends on the device you're powering. In your case, an Arduino with no sensors, it doesn't really matter that the power rail is somewhat noisy.



But if other cases if you have sensors that depend on exact input voltage, or other devices that are sensitive to ripple it may matter. With very sensitive devices you might even have to use a combination of a DC converter to drop the voltage down to close to your target, and then use a low dropout linear regulator to get the final stable voltage without losing a lot of efficiency in the linear stage (since it's only a small step down, instead of a large step down).



Option 3 doesn't work at all. It combines all the disadvantages of linear regulator inefficiency (you're dissipating the voltage difference in the resistors) with an unregulated output voltage that varies depending on the load. The load will vary considerably depending on what the Arduino is doing, and especially whether the WiFi module is sending data or not.






share|improve this answer























  • This is correct, but to be picky: It does not really answer the question, but only parts of it
    – Jounathaen
    8 hours ago










  • Is that better now, @Jounathaen?
    – tylisirn
    7 hours ago










  • Shouldn't ripple on a DC supply be fairly easy to correct? AC guy talking here. @Jounathaen Better a good half answer, than a good half answer and a shabby half answer that's only there for statutory reasons.
    – Harper
    3 hours ago













up vote
4
down vote










up vote
4
down vote









One point to consider between choosing a DC-DC buck converter or a linear regulator is the quality of the output. Because of how they work DC converters will always have some amount of high frequency ripple on the output while linear regulators are extremely smooth.



So, DC converters are very efficient, but noisy, and linear regulators are very smooth, but inefficient (they basically "waste" the voltage difference as heat; stepping down 24V→5V a very large amount of heat).



Whether the ripple matters or whether you can smooth out the DC converter output enough depends on the device you're powering. In your case, an Arduino with no sensors, it doesn't really matter that the power rail is somewhat noisy.



But if other cases if you have sensors that depend on exact input voltage, or other devices that are sensitive to ripple it may matter. With very sensitive devices you might even have to use a combination of a DC converter to drop the voltage down to close to your target, and then use a low dropout linear regulator to get the final stable voltage without losing a lot of efficiency in the linear stage (since it's only a small step down, instead of a large step down).



Option 3 doesn't work at all. It combines all the disadvantages of linear regulator inefficiency (you're dissipating the voltage difference in the resistors) with an unregulated output voltage that varies depending on the load. The load will vary considerably depending on what the Arduino is doing, and especially whether the WiFi module is sending data or not.






share|improve this answer














One point to consider between choosing a DC-DC buck converter or a linear regulator is the quality of the output. Because of how they work DC converters will always have some amount of high frequency ripple on the output while linear regulators are extremely smooth.



So, DC converters are very efficient, but noisy, and linear regulators are very smooth, but inefficient (they basically "waste" the voltage difference as heat; stepping down 24V→5V a very large amount of heat).



Whether the ripple matters or whether you can smooth out the DC converter output enough depends on the device you're powering. In your case, an Arduino with no sensors, it doesn't really matter that the power rail is somewhat noisy.



But if other cases if you have sensors that depend on exact input voltage, or other devices that are sensitive to ripple it may matter. With very sensitive devices you might even have to use a combination of a DC converter to drop the voltage down to close to your target, and then use a low dropout linear regulator to get the final stable voltage without losing a lot of efficiency in the linear stage (since it's only a small step down, instead of a large step down).



Option 3 doesn't work at all. It combines all the disadvantages of linear regulator inefficiency (you're dissipating the voltage difference in the resistors) with an unregulated output voltage that varies depending on the load. The load will vary considerably depending on what the Arduino is doing, and especially whether the WiFi module is sending data or not.







share|improve this answer














share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer








edited 7 hours ago

























answered 9 hours ago









tylisirn

613




613












  • This is correct, but to be picky: It does not really answer the question, but only parts of it
    – Jounathaen
    8 hours ago










  • Is that better now, @Jounathaen?
    – tylisirn
    7 hours ago










  • Shouldn't ripple on a DC supply be fairly easy to correct? AC guy talking here. @Jounathaen Better a good half answer, than a good half answer and a shabby half answer that's only there for statutory reasons.
    – Harper
    3 hours ago


















  • This is correct, but to be picky: It does not really answer the question, but only parts of it
    – Jounathaen
    8 hours ago










  • Is that better now, @Jounathaen?
    – tylisirn
    7 hours ago










  • Shouldn't ripple on a DC supply be fairly easy to correct? AC guy talking here. @Jounathaen Better a good half answer, than a good half answer and a shabby half answer that's only there for statutory reasons.
    – Harper
    3 hours ago
















This is correct, but to be picky: It does not really answer the question, but only parts of it
– Jounathaen
8 hours ago




This is correct, but to be picky: It does not really answer the question, but only parts of it
– Jounathaen
8 hours ago












Is that better now, @Jounathaen?
– tylisirn
7 hours ago




Is that better now, @Jounathaen?
– tylisirn
7 hours ago












Shouldn't ripple on a DC supply be fairly easy to correct? AC guy talking here. @Jounathaen Better a good half answer, than a good half answer and a shabby half answer that's only there for statutory reasons.
– Harper
3 hours ago




Shouldn't ripple on a DC supply be fairly easy to correct? AC guy talking here. @Jounathaen Better a good half answer, than a good half answer and a shabby half answer that's only there for statutory reasons.
– Harper
3 hours ago










up vote
0
down vote













I would suggest you to go with DC-DC buck converter.
I have mentioned a link here
https://www.itead.cc/lm2596-dc-dc-buck-converter-step-down-power-module-output-1-25v-35v.html
[This is an LM2596 DC-DC buck converter step-down power module with high-precision potentiometer, capable of driving a load up to 3A with high efficiency, which can work with Iteaduino UNO, other mainboards and basic modules. When the output current keeps greater than 2.5A (or output power greater than 10W), please add a heat sink on it.]
If you feel this PCB breakout module is big, you will also get LM2596 IC's you can add them in your own PCB.






share|improve this answer





















  • This is probably a good advice for the project, but the question was about the pros/cons of the three approaches. Your do not really answer the question here.
    – Jounathaen
    8 hours ago















up vote
0
down vote













I would suggest you to go with DC-DC buck converter.
I have mentioned a link here
https://www.itead.cc/lm2596-dc-dc-buck-converter-step-down-power-module-output-1-25v-35v.html
[This is an LM2596 DC-DC buck converter step-down power module with high-precision potentiometer, capable of driving a load up to 3A with high efficiency, which can work with Iteaduino UNO, other mainboards and basic modules. When the output current keeps greater than 2.5A (or output power greater than 10W), please add a heat sink on it.]
If you feel this PCB breakout module is big, you will also get LM2596 IC's you can add them in your own PCB.






share|improve this answer





















  • This is probably a good advice for the project, but the question was about the pros/cons of the three approaches. Your do not really answer the question here.
    – Jounathaen
    8 hours ago













up vote
0
down vote










up vote
0
down vote









I would suggest you to go with DC-DC buck converter.
I have mentioned a link here
https://www.itead.cc/lm2596-dc-dc-buck-converter-step-down-power-module-output-1-25v-35v.html
[This is an LM2596 DC-DC buck converter step-down power module with high-precision potentiometer, capable of driving a load up to 3A with high efficiency, which can work with Iteaduino UNO, other mainboards and basic modules. When the output current keeps greater than 2.5A (or output power greater than 10W), please add a heat sink on it.]
If you feel this PCB breakout module is big, you will also get LM2596 IC's you can add them in your own PCB.






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I would suggest you to go with DC-DC buck converter.
I have mentioned a link here
https://www.itead.cc/lm2596-dc-dc-buck-converter-step-down-power-module-output-1-25v-35v.html
[This is an LM2596 DC-DC buck converter step-down power module with high-precision potentiometer, capable of driving a load up to 3A with high efficiency, which can work with Iteaduino UNO, other mainboards and basic modules. When the output current keeps greater than 2.5A (or output power greater than 10W), please add a heat sink on it.]
If you feel this PCB breakout module is big, you will also get LM2596 IC's you can add them in your own PCB.







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answered 11 hours ago









Nagaraj Hegde

34




34












  • This is probably a good advice for the project, but the question was about the pros/cons of the three approaches. Your do not really answer the question here.
    – Jounathaen
    8 hours ago


















  • This is probably a good advice for the project, but the question was about the pros/cons of the three approaches. Your do not really answer the question here.
    – Jounathaen
    8 hours ago
















This is probably a good advice for the project, but the question was about the pros/cons of the three approaches. Your do not really answer the question here.
– Jounathaen
8 hours ago




This is probably a good advice for the project, but the question was about the pros/cons of the three approaches. Your do not really answer the question here.
– Jounathaen
8 hours ago










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