Can leaving the nozzle at 160 °C continuously on in between prints affect the viscosity of the prints?











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We're printing on a WASP 3MT pellet extruder with PLA. To save time, we're leaving the hotend at 160 °C between prints but realized that the print quality varies, from one print to the another, when using the same G-code file.



Could it be that leaving the temperature at 160 °C constantly creates more fluid PLA and therefore affects the following print?










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  • Leaving the temp high for 5 minutes is one thing; for an hour is another. Can you be more specific?
    – Carl Witthoft
    3 hours ago










  • Hey Frank , Your not very specific on what do you mean by print quality varying ? Could you describe what exactly is different every time ? is it dimensions or surface texture , layer height or something else ? . Other than a small clog in the extruder due to carbonising, there shouldn't really be much of a problem. PLA is quite robust that way.
    – Axel Fernandes
    2 hours ago















up vote
4
down vote

favorite












We're printing on a WASP 3MT pellet extruder with PLA. To save time, we're leaving the hotend at 160 °C between prints but realized that the print quality varies, from one print to the another, when using the same G-code file.



Could it be that leaving the temperature at 160 °C constantly creates more fluid PLA and therefore affects the following print?










share|improve this question









New contributor




Frank Quek is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.




















  • Leaving the temp high for 5 minutes is one thing; for an hour is another. Can you be more specific?
    – Carl Witthoft
    3 hours ago










  • Hey Frank , Your not very specific on what do you mean by print quality varying ? Could you describe what exactly is different every time ? is it dimensions or surface texture , layer height or something else ? . Other than a small clog in the extruder due to carbonising, there shouldn't really be much of a problem. PLA is quite robust that way.
    – Axel Fernandes
    2 hours ago













up vote
4
down vote

favorite









up vote
4
down vote

favorite











We're printing on a WASP 3MT pellet extruder with PLA. To save time, we're leaving the hotend at 160 °C between prints but realized that the print quality varies, from one print to the another, when using the same G-code file.



Could it be that leaving the temperature at 160 °C constantly creates more fluid PLA and therefore affects the following print?










share|improve this question









New contributor




Frank Quek is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











We're printing on a WASP 3MT pellet extruder with PLA. To save time, we're leaving the hotend at 160 °C between prints but realized that the print quality varies, from one print to the another, when using the same G-code file.



Could it be that leaving the temperature at 160 °C constantly creates more fluid PLA and therefore affects the following print?







nozzle pellet-extruder delta-wasp-3mt






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New contributor




Frank Quek is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











share|improve this question









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Frank Quek is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









share|improve this question




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edited 6 hours ago









Greenonline

3,18831044




3,18831044






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Check out our Code of Conduct.









asked 8 hours ago









Frank Quek

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211




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Frank Quek is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





New contributor





Frank Quek is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.






Frank Quek is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.












  • Leaving the temp high for 5 minutes is one thing; for an hour is another. Can you be more specific?
    – Carl Witthoft
    3 hours ago










  • Hey Frank , Your not very specific on what do you mean by print quality varying ? Could you describe what exactly is different every time ? is it dimensions or surface texture , layer height or something else ? . Other than a small clog in the extruder due to carbonising, there shouldn't really be much of a problem. PLA is quite robust that way.
    – Axel Fernandes
    2 hours ago


















  • Leaving the temp high for 5 minutes is one thing; for an hour is another. Can you be more specific?
    – Carl Witthoft
    3 hours ago










  • Hey Frank , Your not very specific on what do you mean by print quality varying ? Could you describe what exactly is different every time ? is it dimensions or surface texture , layer height or something else ? . Other than a small clog in the extruder due to carbonising, there shouldn't really be much of a problem. PLA is quite robust that way.
    – Axel Fernandes
    2 hours ago
















Leaving the temp high for 5 minutes is one thing; for an hour is another. Can you be more specific?
– Carl Witthoft
3 hours ago




Leaving the temp high for 5 minutes is one thing; for an hour is another. Can you be more specific?
– Carl Witthoft
3 hours ago












Hey Frank , Your not very specific on what do you mean by print quality varying ? Could you describe what exactly is different every time ? is it dimensions or surface texture , layer height or something else ? . Other than a small clog in the extruder due to carbonising, there shouldn't really be much of a problem. PLA is quite robust that way.
– Axel Fernandes
2 hours ago




Hey Frank , Your not very specific on what do you mean by print quality varying ? Could you describe what exactly is different every time ? is it dimensions or surface texture , layer height or something else ? . Other than a small clog in the extruder due to carbonising, there shouldn't really be much of a problem. PLA is quite robust that way.
– Axel Fernandes
2 hours ago










3 Answers
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up vote
4
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PLA starts to change its properties at above its glass transition temperature of 60-65 °C, if stored there too long. Keeping it at 160°C, close to the melting temperature (173-178 °C) can degrade the material relatively rapidly. During an extrusion, this is usually mitigated by filling fresh material into the melt while the older material gets extruded, but keeping the machine stagnant at the high temperature has not only creep the heat up from the designated melt zone (thus preheating material that should not be preheated yet) but also can damage the material deep in the melt zone. Together with this possible material degradation, the preheated material melts faster and might overshoot the aimed at print temperature until the normal temperature is reached again. Both effects can lead to reduced print quality in the lower layers.



The time saving from keeping the filament heated up for an extended period of time is, in my opinion, not worth the quality reduction that can come from using non-uniform material. You pay more in lost prints than you save in time for heating up the head.



If it is impossible to not keep the hotend heated between prints, it might be advisable try these:




  • Starting every print with a larger purging operation might get rid of degraded material. It would be as simple as extruding some quantity of material before starting the actual print at the edge of the build plate.

  • Aside from purging, it might be a good idea to reduce the hold temperature from 160 °C to a lower temperature, allowing the melt to partly solidify and keep the heat creep in check.






share|improve this answer






























    up vote
    2
    down vote













    With a bottoming value of being printable at 180 °C you are basically cooking the filament at 160 °C. If done a prolonged time, carbonization will take place as the more volatile parts will slowly be gassed out and part from the melt first.



    When you start extruding after a certain time, you will need to get rid of the goo inside, this can lead to (partial) clogs and inconsistent printing. You should either lower it much further or not leaving it on at all.






    share|improve this answer






























      up vote
      1
      down vote













      I leave the extruder working at 190°C between printings up to for 20 minutes while I made the change; this only provoques that the nozzle gets empty; nothing gets burned or clogged. Once to start againg just feed a little more of filament manualy or waits to the skirt do the cleaning and refilling the nozzle.



      Normally at this temperature (190°C) the nozzle gets empty in the next 2 minutes due normal melting flow. I can assure that your printings will be like water drops.






      share|improve this answer

















      • 1




        you use a filament bases printer - they use a pellet based system that melts a considerably larger amount
        – Trish
        1 hour ago













      Your Answer





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      3 Answers
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      3 Answers
      3






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      up vote
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      PLA starts to change its properties at above its glass transition temperature of 60-65 °C, if stored there too long. Keeping it at 160°C, close to the melting temperature (173-178 °C) can degrade the material relatively rapidly. During an extrusion, this is usually mitigated by filling fresh material into the melt while the older material gets extruded, but keeping the machine stagnant at the high temperature has not only creep the heat up from the designated melt zone (thus preheating material that should not be preheated yet) but also can damage the material deep in the melt zone. Together with this possible material degradation, the preheated material melts faster and might overshoot the aimed at print temperature until the normal temperature is reached again. Both effects can lead to reduced print quality in the lower layers.



      The time saving from keeping the filament heated up for an extended period of time is, in my opinion, not worth the quality reduction that can come from using non-uniform material. You pay more in lost prints than you save in time for heating up the head.



      If it is impossible to not keep the hotend heated between prints, it might be advisable try these:




      • Starting every print with a larger purging operation might get rid of degraded material. It would be as simple as extruding some quantity of material before starting the actual print at the edge of the build plate.

      • Aside from purging, it might be a good idea to reduce the hold temperature from 160 °C to a lower temperature, allowing the melt to partly solidify and keep the heat creep in check.






      share|improve this answer



























        up vote
        4
        down vote













        PLA starts to change its properties at above its glass transition temperature of 60-65 °C, if stored there too long. Keeping it at 160°C, close to the melting temperature (173-178 °C) can degrade the material relatively rapidly. During an extrusion, this is usually mitigated by filling fresh material into the melt while the older material gets extruded, but keeping the machine stagnant at the high temperature has not only creep the heat up from the designated melt zone (thus preheating material that should not be preheated yet) but also can damage the material deep in the melt zone. Together with this possible material degradation, the preheated material melts faster and might overshoot the aimed at print temperature until the normal temperature is reached again. Both effects can lead to reduced print quality in the lower layers.



        The time saving from keeping the filament heated up for an extended period of time is, in my opinion, not worth the quality reduction that can come from using non-uniform material. You pay more in lost prints than you save in time for heating up the head.



        If it is impossible to not keep the hotend heated between prints, it might be advisable try these:




        • Starting every print with a larger purging operation might get rid of degraded material. It would be as simple as extruding some quantity of material before starting the actual print at the edge of the build plate.

        • Aside from purging, it might be a good idea to reduce the hold temperature from 160 °C to a lower temperature, allowing the melt to partly solidify and keep the heat creep in check.






        share|improve this answer

























          up vote
          4
          down vote










          up vote
          4
          down vote









          PLA starts to change its properties at above its glass transition temperature of 60-65 °C, if stored there too long. Keeping it at 160°C, close to the melting temperature (173-178 °C) can degrade the material relatively rapidly. During an extrusion, this is usually mitigated by filling fresh material into the melt while the older material gets extruded, but keeping the machine stagnant at the high temperature has not only creep the heat up from the designated melt zone (thus preheating material that should not be preheated yet) but also can damage the material deep in the melt zone. Together with this possible material degradation, the preheated material melts faster and might overshoot the aimed at print temperature until the normal temperature is reached again. Both effects can lead to reduced print quality in the lower layers.



          The time saving from keeping the filament heated up for an extended period of time is, in my opinion, not worth the quality reduction that can come from using non-uniform material. You pay more in lost prints than you save in time for heating up the head.



          If it is impossible to not keep the hotend heated between prints, it might be advisable try these:




          • Starting every print with a larger purging operation might get rid of degraded material. It would be as simple as extruding some quantity of material before starting the actual print at the edge of the build plate.

          • Aside from purging, it might be a good idea to reduce the hold temperature from 160 °C to a lower temperature, allowing the melt to partly solidify and keep the heat creep in check.






          share|improve this answer














          PLA starts to change its properties at above its glass transition temperature of 60-65 °C, if stored there too long. Keeping it at 160°C, close to the melting temperature (173-178 °C) can degrade the material relatively rapidly. During an extrusion, this is usually mitigated by filling fresh material into the melt while the older material gets extruded, but keeping the machine stagnant at the high temperature has not only creep the heat up from the designated melt zone (thus preheating material that should not be preheated yet) but also can damage the material deep in the melt zone. Together with this possible material degradation, the preheated material melts faster and might overshoot the aimed at print temperature until the normal temperature is reached again. Both effects can lead to reduced print quality in the lower layers.



          The time saving from keeping the filament heated up for an extended period of time is, in my opinion, not worth the quality reduction that can come from using non-uniform material. You pay more in lost prints than you save in time for heating up the head.



          If it is impossible to not keep the hotend heated between prints, it might be advisable try these:




          • Starting every print with a larger purging operation might get rid of degraded material. It would be as simple as extruding some quantity of material before starting the actual print at the edge of the build plate.

          • Aside from purging, it might be a good idea to reduce the hold temperature from 160 °C to a lower temperature, allowing the melt to partly solidify and keep the heat creep in check.







          share|improve this answer














          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer








          edited 6 hours ago









          Greenonline

          3,18831044




          3,18831044










          answered 7 hours ago









          Trish

          3,512435




          3,512435






















              up vote
              2
              down vote













              With a bottoming value of being printable at 180 °C you are basically cooking the filament at 160 °C. If done a prolonged time, carbonization will take place as the more volatile parts will slowly be gassed out and part from the melt first.



              When you start extruding after a certain time, you will need to get rid of the goo inside, this can lead to (partial) clogs and inconsistent printing. You should either lower it much further or not leaving it on at all.






              share|improve this answer



























                up vote
                2
                down vote













                With a bottoming value of being printable at 180 °C you are basically cooking the filament at 160 °C. If done a prolonged time, carbonization will take place as the more volatile parts will slowly be gassed out and part from the melt first.



                When you start extruding after a certain time, you will need to get rid of the goo inside, this can lead to (partial) clogs and inconsistent printing. You should either lower it much further or not leaving it on at all.






                share|improve this answer

























                  up vote
                  2
                  down vote










                  up vote
                  2
                  down vote









                  With a bottoming value of being printable at 180 °C you are basically cooking the filament at 160 °C. If done a prolonged time, carbonization will take place as the more volatile parts will slowly be gassed out and part from the melt first.



                  When you start extruding after a certain time, you will need to get rid of the goo inside, this can lead to (partial) clogs and inconsistent printing. You should either lower it much further or not leaving it on at all.






                  share|improve this answer














                  With a bottoming value of being printable at 180 °C you are basically cooking the filament at 160 °C. If done a prolonged time, carbonization will take place as the more volatile parts will slowly be gassed out and part from the melt first.



                  When you start extruding after a certain time, you will need to get rid of the goo inside, this can lead to (partial) clogs and inconsistent printing. You should either lower it much further or not leaving it on at all.







                  share|improve this answer














                  share|improve this answer



                  share|improve this answer








                  edited 6 hours ago









                  Greenonline

                  3,18831044




                  3,18831044










                  answered 6 hours ago









                  0scar

                  8,89021239




                  8,89021239






















                      up vote
                      1
                      down vote













                      I leave the extruder working at 190°C between printings up to for 20 minutes while I made the change; this only provoques that the nozzle gets empty; nothing gets burned or clogged. Once to start againg just feed a little more of filament manualy or waits to the skirt do the cleaning and refilling the nozzle.



                      Normally at this temperature (190°C) the nozzle gets empty in the next 2 minutes due normal melting flow. I can assure that your printings will be like water drops.






                      share|improve this answer

















                      • 1




                        you use a filament bases printer - they use a pellet based system that melts a considerably larger amount
                        – Trish
                        1 hour ago

















                      up vote
                      1
                      down vote













                      I leave the extruder working at 190°C between printings up to for 20 minutes while I made the change; this only provoques that the nozzle gets empty; nothing gets burned or clogged. Once to start againg just feed a little more of filament manualy or waits to the skirt do the cleaning and refilling the nozzle.



                      Normally at this temperature (190°C) the nozzle gets empty in the next 2 minutes due normal melting flow. I can assure that your printings will be like water drops.






                      share|improve this answer

















                      • 1




                        you use a filament bases printer - they use a pellet based system that melts a considerably larger amount
                        – Trish
                        1 hour ago















                      up vote
                      1
                      down vote










                      up vote
                      1
                      down vote









                      I leave the extruder working at 190°C between printings up to for 20 minutes while I made the change; this only provoques that the nozzle gets empty; nothing gets burned or clogged. Once to start againg just feed a little more of filament manualy or waits to the skirt do the cleaning and refilling the nozzle.



                      Normally at this temperature (190°C) the nozzle gets empty in the next 2 minutes due normal melting flow. I can assure that your printings will be like water drops.






                      share|improve this answer












                      I leave the extruder working at 190°C between printings up to for 20 minutes while I made the change; this only provoques that the nozzle gets empty; nothing gets burned or clogged. Once to start againg just feed a little more of filament manualy or waits to the skirt do the cleaning and refilling the nozzle.



                      Normally at this temperature (190°C) the nozzle gets empty in the next 2 minutes due normal melting flow. I can assure that your printings will be like water drops.







                      share|improve this answer












                      share|improve this answer



                      share|improve this answer










                      answered 3 hours ago









                      Fernando Baltazar

                      813315




                      813315








                      • 1




                        you use a filament bases printer - they use a pellet based system that melts a considerably larger amount
                        – Trish
                        1 hour ago
















                      • 1




                        you use a filament bases printer - they use a pellet based system that melts a considerably larger amount
                        – Trish
                        1 hour ago










                      1




                      1




                      you use a filament bases printer - they use a pellet based system that melts a considerably larger amount
                      – Trish
                      1 hour ago






                      you use a filament bases printer - they use a pellet based system that melts a considerably larger amount
                      – Trish
                      1 hour ago












                      Frank Quek is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.










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