Regarding greases for outdoor connections: Noalox for general use (not necessarily for aluminum)? Dielectric...





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I've googled this already and found many people saying that Noalox is only for copper to aluminum connections. I know that Noalox stands for "no aluminium oxidation" but brand names often change meaning from their origins over time. I've also seen people claiming their bottle says it is only for aluminum to copper, while other people say their bottle also says it can be used for copper to copper.



Well, my bottle doesn't say anything about aluminium or copper - it just says it can be used for improving and protecting electrical connections.



Since I am replacing some outdoor outlets and switches that are about 20 years old and mostly rusted to hell, I thought it might be a good idea to put some conductive grease on the contacts for longevity's sake. (I am already replacing all outdoor wingnuts with weatherproof wingnuts which I think also have some kind of grease inside).



It seems Noalox is the only thing my local Home Depot carries for this purpose (or the employee is ill informed) and I'm on a tight schedule so I can't wait for something like Penetrox E-8 to arrive. I know there are concerns about Noalox actually potentially reducing connectivity, but my main concerns is simply ambient humidity and condensation causing corrosion in the contacts over time.



My feeling is that Noalox will do a decent job in this regard, and so even if there is a 1-5% cost in connectivity, there is a 100% improvement in anti-corrosive longevity. Am I wrong? Anyone else care to weigh in?



A related side question: is it a crazy idea to use dielectric grease on the prongs of an outdoor device that is essentially permanently installed and will be plugged into an outdoor receptacle, potentially for years on end? Or is there a better grease for this? Or better nothing at all?



I know there are concerns about non-conductive grease in high voltage applications since they might actually reduce conductivity, but considering most devices are designed for 110V and my mains is actually more like 124V, I don't see that being a huge issue. Especially since these outdoor devices aren't high amperage.










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  • Most devices are designed for 125V. Mains voltage hasn't been 110 since the war. When power was first marketed to the masses, it was 110V, and naturally, that stuck the way "Xerox" stuck.
    – Harper
    1 hour ago










  • Um, most devices are designed for international use, and 125V is not standard the world over (or even where it is, it's not always dependable). Almost every device I've seen is labeled as 110V - 125V, and sometimes only as 110V. And most devices are built with even more tolerance than the label indicates. Similarly, the other main standard is 220V which actually varies in practice from 220V - 240V+.
    – Daniel
    23 mins ago












  • I am discussing the context of your question, which is the I
    – Harper
    14 mins ago










  • My point is I'd expect 110V would be well within the design specs / tolerances of any modern device, and I'm doubting that dielectric grease would affect the conductivity by that much. I could be wrong about the effect of the grease - I very much doubt I am wrong about acceptable voltage ranges on any given mainstream electrical device. Mains being reliably 125V in America is pretty irrelevant considering the vast majority of electronic components are built in China for a global market, and even American- or European-built devices will also be aiming for global distribution 9 times of 10.
    – Daniel
    11 mins ago



















up vote
1
down vote

favorite












I've googled this already and found many people saying that Noalox is only for copper to aluminum connections. I know that Noalox stands for "no aluminium oxidation" but brand names often change meaning from their origins over time. I've also seen people claiming their bottle says it is only for aluminum to copper, while other people say their bottle also says it can be used for copper to copper.



Well, my bottle doesn't say anything about aluminium or copper - it just says it can be used for improving and protecting electrical connections.



Since I am replacing some outdoor outlets and switches that are about 20 years old and mostly rusted to hell, I thought it might be a good idea to put some conductive grease on the contacts for longevity's sake. (I am already replacing all outdoor wingnuts with weatherproof wingnuts which I think also have some kind of grease inside).



It seems Noalox is the only thing my local Home Depot carries for this purpose (or the employee is ill informed) and I'm on a tight schedule so I can't wait for something like Penetrox E-8 to arrive. I know there are concerns about Noalox actually potentially reducing connectivity, but my main concerns is simply ambient humidity and condensation causing corrosion in the contacts over time.



My feeling is that Noalox will do a decent job in this regard, and so even if there is a 1-5% cost in connectivity, there is a 100% improvement in anti-corrosive longevity. Am I wrong? Anyone else care to weigh in?



A related side question: is it a crazy idea to use dielectric grease on the prongs of an outdoor device that is essentially permanently installed and will be plugged into an outdoor receptacle, potentially for years on end? Or is there a better grease for this? Or better nothing at all?



I know there are concerns about non-conductive grease in high voltage applications since they might actually reduce conductivity, but considering most devices are designed for 110V and my mains is actually more like 124V, I don't see that being a huge issue. Especially since these outdoor devices aren't high amperage.










share|improve this question









New contributor




Daniel is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.




















  • Most devices are designed for 125V. Mains voltage hasn't been 110 since the war. When power was first marketed to the masses, it was 110V, and naturally, that stuck the way "Xerox" stuck.
    – Harper
    1 hour ago










  • Um, most devices are designed for international use, and 125V is not standard the world over (or even where it is, it's not always dependable). Almost every device I've seen is labeled as 110V - 125V, and sometimes only as 110V. And most devices are built with even more tolerance than the label indicates. Similarly, the other main standard is 220V which actually varies in practice from 220V - 240V+.
    – Daniel
    23 mins ago












  • I am discussing the context of your question, which is the I
    – Harper
    14 mins ago










  • My point is I'd expect 110V would be well within the design specs / tolerances of any modern device, and I'm doubting that dielectric grease would affect the conductivity by that much. I could be wrong about the effect of the grease - I very much doubt I am wrong about acceptable voltage ranges on any given mainstream electrical device. Mains being reliably 125V in America is pretty irrelevant considering the vast majority of electronic components are built in China for a global market, and even American- or European-built devices will also be aiming for global distribution 9 times of 10.
    – Daniel
    11 mins ago















up vote
1
down vote

favorite









up vote
1
down vote

favorite











I've googled this already and found many people saying that Noalox is only for copper to aluminum connections. I know that Noalox stands for "no aluminium oxidation" but brand names often change meaning from their origins over time. I've also seen people claiming their bottle says it is only for aluminum to copper, while other people say their bottle also says it can be used for copper to copper.



Well, my bottle doesn't say anything about aluminium or copper - it just says it can be used for improving and protecting electrical connections.



Since I am replacing some outdoor outlets and switches that are about 20 years old and mostly rusted to hell, I thought it might be a good idea to put some conductive grease on the contacts for longevity's sake. (I am already replacing all outdoor wingnuts with weatherproof wingnuts which I think also have some kind of grease inside).



It seems Noalox is the only thing my local Home Depot carries for this purpose (or the employee is ill informed) and I'm on a tight schedule so I can't wait for something like Penetrox E-8 to arrive. I know there are concerns about Noalox actually potentially reducing connectivity, but my main concerns is simply ambient humidity and condensation causing corrosion in the contacts over time.



My feeling is that Noalox will do a decent job in this regard, and so even if there is a 1-5% cost in connectivity, there is a 100% improvement in anti-corrosive longevity. Am I wrong? Anyone else care to weigh in?



A related side question: is it a crazy idea to use dielectric grease on the prongs of an outdoor device that is essentially permanently installed and will be plugged into an outdoor receptacle, potentially for years on end? Or is there a better grease for this? Or better nothing at all?



I know there are concerns about non-conductive grease in high voltage applications since they might actually reduce conductivity, but considering most devices are designed for 110V and my mains is actually more like 124V, I don't see that being a huge issue. Especially since these outdoor devices aren't high amperage.










share|improve this question









New contributor




Daniel is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











I've googled this already and found many people saying that Noalox is only for copper to aluminum connections. I know that Noalox stands for "no aluminium oxidation" but brand names often change meaning from their origins over time. I've also seen people claiming their bottle says it is only for aluminum to copper, while other people say their bottle also says it can be used for copper to copper.



Well, my bottle doesn't say anything about aluminium or copper - it just says it can be used for improving and protecting electrical connections.



Since I am replacing some outdoor outlets and switches that are about 20 years old and mostly rusted to hell, I thought it might be a good idea to put some conductive grease on the contacts for longevity's sake. (I am already replacing all outdoor wingnuts with weatherproof wingnuts which I think also have some kind of grease inside).



It seems Noalox is the only thing my local Home Depot carries for this purpose (or the employee is ill informed) and I'm on a tight schedule so I can't wait for something like Penetrox E-8 to arrive. I know there are concerns about Noalox actually potentially reducing connectivity, but my main concerns is simply ambient humidity and condensation causing corrosion in the contacts over time.



My feeling is that Noalox will do a decent job in this regard, and so even if there is a 1-5% cost in connectivity, there is a 100% improvement in anti-corrosive longevity. Am I wrong? Anyone else care to weigh in?



A related side question: is it a crazy idea to use dielectric grease on the prongs of an outdoor device that is essentially permanently installed and will be plugged into an outdoor receptacle, potentially for years on end? Or is there a better grease for this? Or better nothing at all?



I know there are concerns about non-conductive grease in high voltage applications since they might actually reduce conductivity, but considering most devices are designed for 110V and my mains is actually more like 124V, I don't see that being a huge issue. Especially since these outdoor devices aren't high amperage.







electrical receptacle outdoor corrosion






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  • Most devices are designed for 125V. Mains voltage hasn't been 110 since the war. When power was first marketed to the masses, it was 110V, and naturally, that stuck the way "Xerox" stuck.
    – Harper
    1 hour ago










  • Um, most devices are designed for international use, and 125V is not standard the world over (or even where it is, it's not always dependable). Almost every device I've seen is labeled as 110V - 125V, and sometimes only as 110V. And most devices are built with even more tolerance than the label indicates. Similarly, the other main standard is 220V which actually varies in practice from 220V - 240V+.
    – Daniel
    23 mins ago












  • I am discussing the context of your question, which is the I
    – Harper
    14 mins ago










  • My point is I'd expect 110V would be well within the design specs / tolerances of any modern device, and I'm doubting that dielectric grease would affect the conductivity by that much. I could be wrong about the effect of the grease - I very much doubt I am wrong about acceptable voltage ranges on any given mainstream electrical device. Mains being reliably 125V in America is pretty irrelevant considering the vast majority of electronic components are built in China for a global market, and even American- or European-built devices will also be aiming for global distribution 9 times of 10.
    – Daniel
    11 mins ago




















  • Most devices are designed for 125V. Mains voltage hasn't been 110 since the war. When power was first marketed to the masses, it was 110V, and naturally, that stuck the way "Xerox" stuck.
    – Harper
    1 hour ago










  • Um, most devices are designed for international use, and 125V is not standard the world over (or even where it is, it's not always dependable). Almost every device I've seen is labeled as 110V - 125V, and sometimes only as 110V. And most devices are built with even more tolerance than the label indicates. Similarly, the other main standard is 220V which actually varies in practice from 220V - 240V+.
    – Daniel
    23 mins ago












  • I am discussing the context of your question, which is the I
    – Harper
    14 mins ago










  • My point is I'd expect 110V would be well within the design specs / tolerances of any modern device, and I'm doubting that dielectric grease would affect the conductivity by that much. I could be wrong about the effect of the grease - I very much doubt I am wrong about acceptable voltage ranges on any given mainstream electrical device. Mains being reliably 125V in America is pretty irrelevant considering the vast majority of electronic components are built in China for a global market, and even American- or European-built devices will also be aiming for global distribution 9 times of 10.
    – Daniel
    11 mins ago


















Most devices are designed for 125V. Mains voltage hasn't been 110 since the war. When power was first marketed to the masses, it was 110V, and naturally, that stuck the way "Xerox" stuck.
– Harper
1 hour ago




Most devices are designed for 125V. Mains voltage hasn't been 110 since the war. When power was first marketed to the masses, it was 110V, and naturally, that stuck the way "Xerox" stuck.
– Harper
1 hour ago












Um, most devices are designed for international use, and 125V is not standard the world over (or even where it is, it's not always dependable). Almost every device I've seen is labeled as 110V - 125V, and sometimes only as 110V. And most devices are built with even more tolerance than the label indicates. Similarly, the other main standard is 220V which actually varies in practice from 220V - 240V+.
– Daniel
23 mins ago






Um, most devices are designed for international use, and 125V is not standard the world over (or even where it is, it's not always dependable). Almost every device I've seen is labeled as 110V - 125V, and sometimes only as 110V. And most devices are built with even more tolerance than the label indicates. Similarly, the other main standard is 220V which actually varies in practice from 220V - 240V+.
– Daniel
23 mins ago














I am discussing the context of your question, which is the I
– Harper
14 mins ago




I am discussing the context of your question, which is the I
– Harper
14 mins ago












My point is I'd expect 110V would be well within the design specs / tolerances of any modern device, and I'm doubting that dielectric grease would affect the conductivity by that much. I could be wrong about the effect of the grease - I very much doubt I am wrong about acceptable voltage ranges on any given mainstream electrical device. Mains being reliably 125V in America is pretty irrelevant considering the vast majority of electronic components are built in China for a global market, and even American- or European-built devices will also be aiming for global distribution 9 times of 10.
– Daniel
11 mins ago






My point is I'd expect 110V would be well within the design specs / tolerances of any modern device, and I'm doubting that dielectric grease would affect the conductivity by that much. I could be wrong about the effect of the grease - I very much doubt I am wrong about acceptable voltage ranges on any given mainstream electrical device. Mains being reliably 125V in America is pretty irrelevant considering the vast majority of electronic components are built in China for a global market, and even American- or European-built devices will also be aiming for global distribution 9 times of 10.
– Daniel
11 mins ago












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I have used dielectric grease for years in so many applications. For mains voltages is is primarily a non-conductive corrosion barrier. In that sense, any non-conductive grease will do. Electrically, the original metal-to-metal connection is maintained because corrosion is reduced. You can use it liberally around connection points because it does not conduct.

Noalox sems to contain zinc dust in a plastic grease matrix. I'm not sure how conductive it may be at mains voltages, but I would apply it only at the specific connections.






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    Putting aluminum wire on copper terminations is a bad idea, it's what started all the Al hubballoo in the furst place. That is why large lugs are aluminum. Noalox is also for aluminum-aluminum bonding. It will work fine for Cu-Cu. Also, aluminum wireneuts are rubbish.



    You are talking about receptacles that cost 75 cents and wirenuts that cost 3 cents, It isn't worth going to extremes to protect outdoor electrical gear from damage, because that's gonna happen.



    Related, you really want to arrange your wiring so your GFCI protective devices are indoors. You wouldn't leave a phone outdoors and expect it to work for long, don't do that for any other electronic device...






    share|improve this answer





















    • The home is too old and jury-rigged for it to be worth my time to figure out where the wires go and what else is on the circuit and how it is wired. I'm looking to do the best job I can within the limited scope of the assignment. The rest of the circuit can fail for all I care, but the parts that I touch specifically I want to be installed correctly and as reliable for as long as possible. I don't like to get calls later, even years later, for something I should have done right the first time.
      – Daniel
      27 mins ago













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    2 Answers
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    I have used dielectric grease for years in so many applications. For mains voltages is is primarily a non-conductive corrosion barrier. In that sense, any non-conductive grease will do. Electrically, the original metal-to-metal connection is maintained because corrosion is reduced. You can use it liberally around connection points because it does not conduct.

    Noalox sems to contain zinc dust in a plastic grease matrix. I'm not sure how conductive it may be at mains voltages, but I would apply it only at the specific connections.






    share|improve this answer








    New contributor




    John Canon is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
    Check out our Code of Conduct.






















      up vote
      1
      down vote













      I have used dielectric grease for years in so many applications. For mains voltages is is primarily a non-conductive corrosion barrier. In that sense, any non-conductive grease will do. Electrically, the original metal-to-metal connection is maintained because corrosion is reduced. You can use it liberally around connection points because it does not conduct.

      Noalox sems to contain zinc dust in a plastic grease matrix. I'm not sure how conductive it may be at mains voltages, but I would apply it only at the specific connections.






      share|improve this answer








      New contributor




      John Canon is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.




















        up vote
        1
        down vote










        up vote
        1
        down vote









        I have used dielectric grease for years in so many applications. For mains voltages is is primarily a non-conductive corrosion barrier. In that sense, any non-conductive grease will do. Electrically, the original metal-to-metal connection is maintained because corrosion is reduced. You can use it liberally around connection points because it does not conduct.

        Noalox sems to contain zinc dust in a plastic grease matrix. I'm not sure how conductive it may be at mains voltages, but I would apply it only at the specific connections.






        share|improve this answer








        New contributor




        John Canon is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
        Check out our Code of Conduct.









        I have used dielectric grease for years in so many applications. For mains voltages is is primarily a non-conductive corrosion barrier. In that sense, any non-conductive grease will do. Electrically, the original metal-to-metal connection is maintained because corrosion is reduced. You can use it liberally around connection points because it does not conduct.

        Noalox sems to contain zinc dust in a plastic grease matrix. I'm not sure how conductive it may be at mains voltages, but I would apply it only at the specific connections.







        share|improve this answer








        New contributor




        John Canon is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
        Check out our Code of Conduct.









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        answered 1 hour ago









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            up vote
            1
            down vote













            Putting aluminum wire on copper terminations is a bad idea, it's what started all the Al hubballoo in the furst place. That is why large lugs are aluminum. Noalox is also for aluminum-aluminum bonding. It will work fine for Cu-Cu. Also, aluminum wireneuts are rubbish.



            You are talking about receptacles that cost 75 cents and wirenuts that cost 3 cents, It isn't worth going to extremes to protect outdoor electrical gear from damage, because that's gonna happen.



            Related, you really want to arrange your wiring so your GFCI protective devices are indoors. You wouldn't leave a phone outdoors and expect it to work for long, don't do that for any other electronic device...






            share|improve this answer





















            • The home is too old and jury-rigged for it to be worth my time to figure out where the wires go and what else is on the circuit and how it is wired. I'm looking to do the best job I can within the limited scope of the assignment. The rest of the circuit can fail for all I care, but the parts that I touch specifically I want to be installed correctly and as reliable for as long as possible. I don't like to get calls later, even years later, for something I should have done right the first time.
              – Daniel
              27 mins ago

















            up vote
            1
            down vote













            Putting aluminum wire on copper terminations is a bad idea, it's what started all the Al hubballoo in the furst place. That is why large lugs are aluminum. Noalox is also for aluminum-aluminum bonding. It will work fine for Cu-Cu. Also, aluminum wireneuts are rubbish.



            You are talking about receptacles that cost 75 cents and wirenuts that cost 3 cents, It isn't worth going to extremes to protect outdoor electrical gear from damage, because that's gonna happen.



            Related, you really want to arrange your wiring so your GFCI protective devices are indoors. You wouldn't leave a phone outdoors and expect it to work for long, don't do that for any other electronic device...






            share|improve this answer





















            • The home is too old and jury-rigged for it to be worth my time to figure out where the wires go and what else is on the circuit and how it is wired. I'm looking to do the best job I can within the limited scope of the assignment. The rest of the circuit can fail for all I care, but the parts that I touch specifically I want to be installed correctly and as reliable for as long as possible. I don't like to get calls later, even years later, for something I should have done right the first time.
              – Daniel
              27 mins ago















            up vote
            1
            down vote










            up vote
            1
            down vote









            Putting aluminum wire on copper terminations is a bad idea, it's what started all the Al hubballoo in the furst place. That is why large lugs are aluminum. Noalox is also for aluminum-aluminum bonding. It will work fine for Cu-Cu. Also, aluminum wireneuts are rubbish.



            You are talking about receptacles that cost 75 cents and wirenuts that cost 3 cents, It isn't worth going to extremes to protect outdoor electrical gear from damage, because that's gonna happen.



            Related, you really want to arrange your wiring so your GFCI protective devices are indoors. You wouldn't leave a phone outdoors and expect it to work for long, don't do that for any other electronic device...






            share|improve this answer












            Putting aluminum wire on copper terminations is a bad idea, it's what started all the Al hubballoo in the furst place. That is why large lugs are aluminum. Noalox is also for aluminum-aluminum bonding. It will work fine for Cu-Cu. Also, aluminum wireneuts are rubbish.



            You are talking about receptacles that cost 75 cents and wirenuts that cost 3 cents, It isn't worth going to extremes to protect outdoor electrical gear from damage, because that's gonna happen.



            Related, you really want to arrange your wiring so your GFCI protective devices are indoors. You wouldn't leave a phone outdoors and expect it to work for long, don't do that for any other electronic device...







            share|improve this answer












            share|improve this answer



            share|improve this answer










            answered 54 mins ago









            Harper

            62.2k341125




            62.2k341125












            • The home is too old and jury-rigged for it to be worth my time to figure out where the wires go and what else is on the circuit and how it is wired. I'm looking to do the best job I can within the limited scope of the assignment. The rest of the circuit can fail for all I care, but the parts that I touch specifically I want to be installed correctly and as reliable for as long as possible. I don't like to get calls later, even years later, for something I should have done right the first time.
              – Daniel
              27 mins ago




















            • The home is too old and jury-rigged for it to be worth my time to figure out where the wires go and what else is on the circuit and how it is wired. I'm looking to do the best job I can within the limited scope of the assignment. The rest of the circuit can fail for all I care, but the parts that I touch specifically I want to be installed correctly and as reliable for as long as possible. I don't like to get calls later, even years later, for something I should have done right the first time.
              – Daniel
              27 mins ago


















            The home is too old and jury-rigged for it to be worth my time to figure out where the wires go and what else is on the circuit and how it is wired. I'm looking to do the best job I can within the limited scope of the assignment. The rest of the circuit can fail for all I care, but the parts that I touch specifically I want to be installed correctly and as reliable for as long as possible. I don't like to get calls later, even years later, for something I should have done right the first time.
            – Daniel
            27 mins ago






            The home is too old and jury-rigged for it to be worth my time to figure out where the wires go and what else is on the circuit and how it is wired. I'm looking to do the best job I can within the limited scope of the assignment. The rest of the circuit can fail for all I care, but the parts that I touch specifically I want to be installed correctly and as reliable for as long as possible. I don't like to get calls later, even years later, for something I should have done right the first time.
            – Daniel
            27 mins ago












            Daniel is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.










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