Ways to power an Arduino from 24 VDC
up vote
4
down vote
favorite
I want to power an Arduino (Wemos D1 Mini) with 5 or 3.3 V from my garage door opener, which has 24 VDC available.
As far as I understand, this can be solved in the following ways:
- Step down buck converter
- Linear voltage regulator
- Voltage divider circuit
What are the pros/cons of each of these?
I'm concerned about heat, and I don't want to burn down the garage. I haven't measured how much current my Arduino draws, but I guess it's very little like 250 mA or less(?). I'm only using the built-in Wi-Fi module and no external sensors/relays.
resistors voltage-regulator voltage-divider buck heat
New contributor
add a comment |
up vote
4
down vote
favorite
I want to power an Arduino (Wemos D1 Mini) with 5 or 3.3 V from my garage door opener, which has 24 VDC available.
As far as I understand, this can be solved in the following ways:
- Step down buck converter
- Linear voltage regulator
- Voltage divider circuit
What are the pros/cons of each of these?
I'm concerned about heat, and I don't want to burn down the garage. I haven't measured how much current my Arduino draws, but I guess it's very little like 250 mA or less(?). I'm only using the built-in Wi-Fi module and no external sensors/relays.
resistors voltage-regulator voltage-divider buck heat
New contributor
2
Hi and Welcome. It would be better to not "guess" - can you measure? A voltage divider is never recommended unless you at least know your load current and the load current is VERY stable.
– mike65535
10 hours ago
The acronym "COTS" may be helpful to you.
– Harper
5 hours ago
add a comment |
up vote
4
down vote
favorite
up vote
4
down vote
favorite
I want to power an Arduino (Wemos D1 Mini) with 5 or 3.3 V from my garage door opener, which has 24 VDC available.
As far as I understand, this can be solved in the following ways:
- Step down buck converter
- Linear voltage regulator
- Voltage divider circuit
What are the pros/cons of each of these?
I'm concerned about heat, and I don't want to burn down the garage. I haven't measured how much current my Arduino draws, but I guess it's very little like 250 mA or less(?). I'm only using the built-in Wi-Fi module and no external sensors/relays.
resistors voltage-regulator voltage-divider buck heat
New contributor
I want to power an Arduino (Wemos D1 Mini) with 5 or 3.3 V from my garage door opener, which has 24 VDC available.
As far as I understand, this can be solved in the following ways:
- Step down buck converter
- Linear voltage regulator
- Voltage divider circuit
What are the pros/cons of each of these?
I'm concerned about heat, and I don't want to burn down the garage. I haven't measured how much current my Arduino draws, but I guess it's very little like 250 mA or less(?). I'm only using the built-in Wi-Fi module and no external sensors/relays.
resistors voltage-regulator voltage-divider buck heat
resistors voltage-regulator voltage-divider buck heat
New contributor
New contributor
edited 31 mins ago
Peter Mortensen
1,58031422
1,58031422
New contributor
asked 11 hours ago
Mats Faugli
232
232
New contributor
New contributor
2
Hi and Welcome. It would be better to not "guess" - can you measure? A voltage divider is never recommended unless you at least know your load current and the load current is VERY stable.
– mike65535
10 hours ago
The acronym "COTS" may be helpful to you.
– Harper
5 hours ago
add a comment |
2
Hi and Welcome. It would be better to not "guess" - can you measure? A voltage divider is never recommended unless you at least know your load current and the load current is VERY stable.
– mike65535
10 hours ago
The acronym "COTS" may be helpful to you.
– Harper
5 hours ago
2
2
Hi and Welcome. It would be better to not "guess" - can you measure? A voltage divider is never recommended unless you at least know your load current and the load current is VERY stable.
– mike65535
10 hours ago
Hi and Welcome. It would be better to not "guess" - can you measure? A voltage divider is never recommended unless you at least know your load current and the load current is VERY stable.
– mike65535
10 hours ago
The acronym "COTS" may be helpful to you.
– Harper
5 hours ago
The acronym "COTS" may be helpful to you.
– Harper
5 hours ago
add a comment |
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
up vote
10
down vote
accepted
This is the most efficient solution, will provide good conversion rate but is a little bit more complex to do and also more expensive. Although you can find modules that are already soldered with components saving you the trouble of calculating everything.
This is less efficient, it basically acts as a regulated resistor, dissipating the power you don't use through heating. Only need 3 components usually, the voltage regulator and 2 capacitors and it is cheaper than 1.
Won't work for you, voltage divider is not regulated and depends on the load, thus the resulting voltage may vary.
For your case, I would buy a DC/DC buck converter module already assembled like this one.
Note there are also capacitor based voltage converters.
Don't you think #2 will not be feasible at all as well?
– MaNyYaCk
11 hours ago
Yes of course it's feasible, it's just less power efficient.
– Damien
11 hours ago
7
That linear regulator would be dissipating like five watts. A good, well-installed heatsink would be necessary, and even then I'd worry about airflow depending on the case.
– Sneftel
8 hours ago
add a comment |
up vote
4
down vote
One point to consider between choosing a DC-DC buck converter or a linear regulator is the quality of the output. Because of how they work DC converters will always have some amount of high frequency ripple on the output while linear regulators are extremely smooth.
So, DC converters are very efficient, but noisy, and linear regulators are very smooth, but inefficient (they basically "waste" the voltage difference as heat; stepping down 24V→5V a very large amount of heat).
Whether the ripple matters or whether you can smooth out the DC converter output enough depends on the device you're powering. In your case, an Arduino with no sensors, it doesn't really matter that the power rail is somewhat noisy.
But if other cases if you have sensors that depend on exact input voltage, or other devices that are sensitive to ripple it may matter. With very sensitive devices you might even have to use a combination of a DC converter to drop the voltage down to close to your target, and then use a low dropout linear regulator to get the final stable voltage without losing a lot of efficiency in the linear stage (since it's only a small step down, instead of a large step down).
Option 3 doesn't work at all. It combines all the disadvantages of linear regulator inefficiency (you're dissipating the voltage difference in the resistors) with an unregulated output voltage that varies depending on the load. The load will vary considerably depending on what the Arduino is doing, and especially whether the WiFi module is sending data or not.
This is correct, but to be picky: It does not really answer the question, but only parts of it
– Jounathaen
8 hours ago
Is that better now, @Jounathaen?
– tylisirn
7 hours ago
Shouldn't ripple on a DC supply be fairly easy to correct? AC guy talking here. @Jounathaen Better a good half answer, than a good half answer and a shabby half answer that's only there for statutory reasons.
– Harper
3 hours ago
add a comment |
up vote
0
down vote
I would suggest you to go with DC-DC buck converter.
I have mentioned a link here
https://www.itead.cc/lm2596-dc-dc-buck-converter-step-down-power-module-output-1-25v-35v.html
[This is an LM2596 DC-DC buck converter step-down power module with high-precision potentiometer, capable of driving a load up to 3A with high efficiency, which can work with Iteaduino UNO, other mainboards and basic modules. When the output current keeps greater than 2.5A (or output power greater than 10W), please add a heat sink on it.]
If you feel this PCB breakout module is big, you will also get LM2596 IC's you can add them in your own PCB.
This is probably a good advice for the project, but the question was about the pros/cons of the three approaches. Your do not really answer the question here.
– Jounathaen
8 hours ago
add a comment |
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
10
down vote
accepted
This is the most efficient solution, will provide good conversion rate but is a little bit more complex to do and also more expensive. Although you can find modules that are already soldered with components saving you the trouble of calculating everything.
This is less efficient, it basically acts as a regulated resistor, dissipating the power you don't use through heating. Only need 3 components usually, the voltage regulator and 2 capacitors and it is cheaper than 1.
Won't work for you, voltage divider is not regulated and depends on the load, thus the resulting voltage may vary.
For your case, I would buy a DC/DC buck converter module already assembled like this one.
Note there are also capacitor based voltage converters.
Don't you think #2 will not be feasible at all as well?
– MaNyYaCk
11 hours ago
Yes of course it's feasible, it's just less power efficient.
– Damien
11 hours ago
7
That linear regulator would be dissipating like five watts. A good, well-installed heatsink would be necessary, and even then I'd worry about airflow depending on the case.
– Sneftel
8 hours ago
add a comment |
up vote
10
down vote
accepted
This is the most efficient solution, will provide good conversion rate but is a little bit more complex to do and also more expensive. Although you can find modules that are already soldered with components saving you the trouble of calculating everything.
This is less efficient, it basically acts as a regulated resistor, dissipating the power you don't use through heating. Only need 3 components usually, the voltage regulator and 2 capacitors and it is cheaper than 1.
Won't work for you, voltage divider is not regulated and depends on the load, thus the resulting voltage may vary.
For your case, I would buy a DC/DC buck converter module already assembled like this one.
Note there are also capacitor based voltage converters.
Don't you think #2 will not be feasible at all as well?
– MaNyYaCk
11 hours ago
Yes of course it's feasible, it's just less power efficient.
– Damien
11 hours ago
7
That linear regulator would be dissipating like five watts. A good, well-installed heatsink would be necessary, and even then I'd worry about airflow depending on the case.
– Sneftel
8 hours ago
add a comment |
up vote
10
down vote
accepted
up vote
10
down vote
accepted
This is the most efficient solution, will provide good conversion rate but is a little bit more complex to do and also more expensive. Although you can find modules that are already soldered with components saving you the trouble of calculating everything.
This is less efficient, it basically acts as a regulated resistor, dissipating the power you don't use through heating. Only need 3 components usually, the voltage regulator and 2 capacitors and it is cheaper than 1.
Won't work for you, voltage divider is not regulated and depends on the load, thus the resulting voltage may vary.
For your case, I would buy a DC/DC buck converter module already assembled like this one.
Note there are also capacitor based voltage converters.
This is the most efficient solution, will provide good conversion rate but is a little bit more complex to do and also more expensive. Although you can find modules that are already soldered with components saving you the trouble of calculating everything.
This is less efficient, it basically acts as a regulated resistor, dissipating the power you don't use through heating. Only need 3 components usually, the voltage regulator and 2 capacitors and it is cheaper than 1.
Won't work for you, voltage divider is not regulated and depends on the load, thus the resulting voltage may vary.
For your case, I would buy a DC/DC buck converter module already assembled like this one.
Note there are also capacitor based voltage converters.
edited 11 hours ago
answered 11 hours ago
Damien
1,489214
1,489214
Don't you think #2 will not be feasible at all as well?
– MaNyYaCk
11 hours ago
Yes of course it's feasible, it's just less power efficient.
– Damien
11 hours ago
7
That linear regulator would be dissipating like five watts. A good, well-installed heatsink would be necessary, and even then I'd worry about airflow depending on the case.
– Sneftel
8 hours ago
add a comment |
Don't you think #2 will not be feasible at all as well?
– MaNyYaCk
11 hours ago
Yes of course it's feasible, it's just less power efficient.
– Damien
11 hours ago
7
That linear regulator would be dissipating like five watts. A good, well-installed heatsink would be necessary, and even then I'd worry about airflow depending on the case.
– Sneftel
8 hours ago
Don't you think #2 will not be feasible at all as well?
– MaNyYaCk
11 hours ago
Don't you think #2 will not be feasible at all as well?
– MaNyYaCk
11 hours ago
Yes of course it's feasible, it's just less power efficient.
– Damien
11 hours ago
Yes of course it's feasible, it's just less power efficient.
– Damien
11 hours ago
7
7
That linear regulator would be dissipating like five watts. A good, well-installed heatsink would be necessary, and even then I'd worry about airflow depending on the case.
– Sneftel
8 hours ago
That linear regulator would be dissipating like five watts. A good, well-installed heatsink would be necessary, and even then I'd worry about airflow depending on the case.
– Sneftel
8 hours ago
add a comment |
up vote
4
down vote
One point to consider between choosing a DC-DC buck converter or a linear regulator is the quality of the output. Because of how they work DC converters will always have some amount of high frequency ripple on the output while linear regulators are extremely smooth.
So, DC converters are very efficient, but noisy, and linear regulators are very smooth, but inefficient (they basically "waste" the voltage difference as heat; stepping down 24V→5V a very large amount of heat).
Whether the ripple matters or whether you can smooth out the DC converter output enough depends on the device you're powering. In your case, an Arduino with no sensors, it doesn't really matter that the power rail is somewhat noisy.
But if other cases if you have sensors that depend on exact input voltage, or other devices that are sensitive to ripple it may matter. With very sensitive devices you might even have to use a combination of a DC converter to drop the voltage down to close to your target, and then use a low dropout linear regulator to get the final stable voltage without losing a lot of efficiency in the linear stage (since it's only a small step down, instead of a large step down).
Option 3 doesn't work at all. It combines all the disadvantages of linear regulator inefficiency (you're dissipating the voltage difference in the resistors) with an unregulated output voltage that varies depending on the load. The load will vary considerably depending on what the Arduino is doing, and especially whether the WiFi module is sending data or not.
This is correct, but to be picky: It does not really answer the question, but only parts of it
– Jounathaen
8 hours ago
Is that better now, @Jounathaen?
– tylisirn
7 hours ago
Shouldn't ripple on a DC supply be fairly easy to correct? AC guy talking here. @Jounathaen Better a good half answer, than a good half answer and a shabby half answer that's only there for statutory reasons.
– Harper
3 hours ago
add a comment |
up vote
4
down vote
One point to consider between choosing a DC-DC buck converter or a linear regulator is the quality of the output. Because of how they work DC converters will always have some amount of high frequency ripple on the output while linear regulators are extremely smooth.
So, DC converters are very efficient, but noisy, and linear regulators are very smooth, but inefficient (they basically "waste" the voltage difference as heat; stepping down 24V→5V a very large amount of heat).
Whether the ripple matters or whether you can smooth out the DC converter output enough depends on the device you're powering. In your case, an Arduino with no sensors, it doesn't really matter that the power rail is somewhat noisy.
But if other cases if you have sensors that depend on exact input voltage, or other devices that are sensitive to ripple it may matter. With very sensitive devices you might even have to use a combination of a DC converter to drop the voltage down to close to your target, and then use a low dropout linear regulator to get the final stable voltage without losing a lot of efficiency in the linear stage (since it's only a small step down, instead of a large step down).
Option 3 doesn't work at all. It combines all the disadvantages of linear regulator inefficiency (you're dissipating the voltage difference in the resistors) with an unregulated output voltage that varies depending on the load. The load will vary considerably depending on what the Arduino is doing, and especially whether the WiFi module is sending data or not.
This is correct, but to be picky: It does not really answer the question, but only parts of it
– Jounathaen
8 hours ago
Is that better now, @Jounathaen?
– tylisirn
7 hours ago
Shouldn't ripple on a DC supply be fairly easy to correct? AC guy talking here. @Jounathaen Better a good half answer, than a good half answer and a shabby half answer that's only there for statutory reasons.
– Harper
3 hours ago
add a comment |
up vote
4
down vote
up vote
4
down vote
One point to consider between choosing a DC-DC buck converter or a linear regulator is the quality of the output. Because of how they work DC converters will always have some amount of high frequency ripple on the output while linear regulators are extremely smooth.
So, DC converters are very efficient, but noisy, and linear regulators are very smooth, but inefficient (they basically "waste" the voltage difference as heat; stepping down 24V→5V a very large amount of heat).
Whether the ripple matters or whether you can smooth out the DC converter output enough depends on the device you're powering. In your case, an Arduino with no sensors, it doesn't really matter that the power rail is somewhat noisy.
But if other cases if you have sensors that depend on exact input voltage, or other devices that are sensitive to ripple it may matter. With very sensitive devices you might even have to use a combination of a DC converter to drop the voltage down to close to your target, and then use a low dropout linear regulator to get the final stable voltage without losing a lot of efficiency in the linear stage (since it's only a small step down, instead of a large step down).
Option 3 doesn't work at all. It combines all the disadvantages of linear regulator inefficiency (you're dissipating the voltage difference in the resistors) with an unregulated output voltage that varies depending on the load. The load will vary considerably depending on what the Arduino is doing, and especially whether the WiFi module is sending data or not.
One point to consider between choosing a DC-DC buck converter or a linear regulator is the quality of the output. Because of how they work DC converters will always have some amount of high frequency ripple on the output while linear regulators are extremely smooth.
So, DC converters are very efficient, but noisy, and linear regulators are very smooth, but inefficient (they basically "waste" the voltage difference as heat; stepping down 24V→5V a very large amount of heat).
Whether the ripple matters or whether you can smooth out the DC converter output enough depends on the device you're powering. In your case, an Arduino with no sensors, it doesn't really matter that the power rail is somewhat noisy.
But if other cases if you have sensors that depend on exact input voltage, or other devices that are sensitive to ripple it may matter. With very sensitive devices you might even have to use a combination of a DC converter to drop the voltage down to close to your target, and then use a low dropout linear regulator to get the final stable voltage without losing a lot of efficiency in the linear stage (since it's only a small step down, instead of a large step down).
Option 3 doesn't work at all. It combines all the disadvantages of linear regulator inefficiency (you're dissipating the voltage difference in the resistors) with an unregulated output voltage that varies depending on the load. The load will vary considerably depending on what the Arduino is doing, and especially whether the WiFi module is sending data or not.
edited 7 hours ago
answered 9 hours ago
tylisirn
613
613
This is correct, but to be picky: It does not really answer the question, but only parts of it
– Jounathaen
8 hours ago
Is that better now, @Jounathaen?
– tylisirn
7 hours ago
Shouldn't ripple on a DC supply be fairly easy to correct? AC guy talking here. @Jounathaen Better a good half answer, than a good half answer and a shabby half answer that's only there for statutory reasons.
– Harper
3 hours ago
add a comment |
This is correct, but to be picky: It does not really answer the question, but only parts of it
– Jounathaen
8 hours ago
Is that better now, @Jounathaen?
– tylisirn
7 hours ago
Shouldn't ripple on a DC supply be fairly easy to correct? AC guy talking here. @Jounathaen Better a good half answer, than a good half answer and a shabby half answer that's only there for statutory reasons.
– Harper
3 hours ago
This is correct, but to be picky: It does not really answer the question, but only parts of it
– Jounathaen
8 hours ago
This is correct, but to be picky: It does not really answer the question, but only parts of it
– Jounathaen
8 hours ago
Is that better now, @Jounathaen?
– tylisirn
7 hours ago
Is that better now, @Jounathaen?
– tylisirn
7 hours ago
Shouldn't ripple on a DC supply be fairly easy to correct? AC guy talking here. @Jounathaen Better a good half answer, than a good half answer and a shabby half answer that's only there for statutory reasons.
– Harper
3 hours ago
Shouldn't ripple on a DC supply be fairly easy to correct? AC guy talking here. @Jounathaen Better a good half answer, than a good half answer and a shabby half answer that's only there for statutory reasons.
– Harper
3 hours ago
add a comment |
up vote
0
down vote
I would suggest you to go with DC-DC buck converter.
I have mentioned a link here
https://www.itead.cc/lm2596-dc-dc-buck-converter-step-down-power-module-output-1-25v-35v.html
[This is an LM2596 DC-DC buck converter step-down power module with high-precision potentiometer, capable of driving a load up to 3A with high efficiency, which can work with Iteaduino UNO, other mainboards and basic modules. When the output current keeps greater than 2.5A (or output power greater than 10W), please add a heat sink on it.]
If you feel this PCB breakout module is big, you will also get LM2596 IC's you can add them in your own PCB.
This is probably a good advice for the project, but the question was about the pros/cons of the three approaches. Your do not really answer the question here.
– Jounathaen
8 hours ago
add a comment |
up vote
0
down vote
I would suggest you to go with DC-DC buck converter.
I have mentioned a link here
https://www.itead.cc/lm2596-dc-dc-buck-converter-step-down-power-module-output-1-25v-35v.html
[This is an LM2596 DC-DC buck converter step-down power module with high-precision potentiometer, capable of driving a load up to 3A with high efficiency, which can work with Iteaduino UNO, other mainboards and basic modules. When the output current keeps greater than 2.5A (or output power greater than 10W), please add a heat sink on it.]
If you feel this PCB breakout module is big, you will also get LM2596 IC's you can add them in your own PCB.
This is probably a good advice for the project, but the question was about the pros/cons of the three approaches. Your do not really answer the question here.
– Jounathaen
8 hours ago
add a comment |
up vote
0
down vote
up vote
0
down vote
I would suggest you to go with DC-DC buck converter.
I have mentioned a link here
https://www.itead.cc/lm2596-dc-dc-buck-converter-step-down-power-module-output-1-25v-35v.html
[This is an LM2596 DC-DC buck converter step-down power module with high-precision potentiometer, capable of driving a load up to 3A with high efficiency, which can work with Iteaduino UNO, other mainboards and basic modules. When the output current keeps greater than 2.5A (or output power greater than 10W), please add a heat sink on it.]
If you feel this PCB breakout module is big, you will also get LM2596 IC's you can add them in your own PCB.
I would suggest you to go with DC-DC buck converter.
I have mentioned a link here
https://www.itead.cc/lm2596-dc-dc-buck-converter-step-down-power-module-output-1-25v-35v.html
[This is an LM2596 DC-DC buck converter step-down power module with high-precision potentiometer, capable of driving a load up to 3A with high efficiency, which can work with Iteaduino UNO, other mainboards and basic modules. When the output current keeps greater than 2.5A (or output power greater than 10W), please add a heat sink on it.]
If you feel this PCB breakout module is big, you will also get LM2596 IC's you can add them in your own PCB.
answered 11 hours ago
Nagaraj Hegde
34
34
This is probably a good advice for the project, but the question was about the pros/cons of the three approaches. Your do not really answer the question here.
– Jounathaen
8 hours ago
add a comment |
This is probably a good advice for the project, but the question was about the pros/cons of the three approaches. Your do not really answer the question here.
– Jounathaen
8 hours ago
This is probably a good advice for the project, but the question was about the pros/cons of the three approaches. Your do not really answer the question here.
– Jounathaen
8 hours ago
This is probably a good advice for the project, but the question was about the pros/cons of the three approaches. Your do not really answer the question here.
– Jounathaen
8 hours ago
add a comment |
Mats Faugli is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Mats Faugli is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Mats Faugli is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Mats Faugli is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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2
Hi and Welcome. It would be better to not "guess" - can you measure? A voltage divider is never recommended unless you at least know your load current and the load current is VERY stable.
– mike65535
10 hours ago
The acronym "COTS" may be helpful to you.
– Harper
5 hours ago