Is there a reason not to nail up drywall?
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I have a bunch of drywall to put up. I am staring at a loaded 15-gauge framing nail gun, and a drill + a box of drywall screws, and boy oh boy does that nail gun look tempting.
When attaching to wooden studs, is there any reason not to just nail the drywall up, rather than using screws?
drywall installation construction fastener technique
add a comment |
up vote
4
down vote
favorite
I have a bunch of drywall to put up. I am staring at a loaded 15-gauge framing nail gun, and a drill + a box of drywall screws, and boy oh boy does that nail gun look tempting.
When attaching to wooden studs, is there any reason not to just nail the drywall up, rather than using screws?
drywall installation construction fastener technique
5
Inability to control the depth of the nail gun which is made for attaching hard thick boards together not soft thin drywall
– Kris
2 days ago
4
And the classic nail-pop that inevitably follows.
– bib
2 days ago
add a comment |
up vote
4
down vote
favorite
up vote
4
down vote
favorite
I have a bunch of drywall to put up. I am staring at a loaded 15-gauge framing nail gun, and a drill + a box of drywall screws, and boy oh boy does that nail gun look tempting.
When attaching to wooden studs, is there any reason not to just nail the drywall up, rather than using screws?
drywall installation construction fastener technique
I have a bunch of drywall to put up. I am staring at a loaded 15-gauge framing nail gun, and a drill + a box of drywall screws, and boy oh boy does that nail gun look tempting.
When attaching to wooden studs, is there any reason not to just nail the drywall up, rather than using screws?
drywall installation construction fastener technique
drywall installation construction fastener technique
asked 2 days ago
Jason C
4633715
4633715
5
Inability to control the depth of the nail gun which is made for attaching hard thick boards together not soft thin drywall
– Kris
2 days ago
4
And the classic nail-pop that inevitably follows.
– bib
2 days ago
add a comment |
5
Inability to control the depth of the nail gun which is made for attaching hard thick boards together not soft thin drywall
– Kris
2 days ago
4
And the classic nail-pop that inevitably follows.
– bib
2 days ago
5
5
Inability to control the depth of the nail gun which is made for attaching hard thick boards together not soft thin drywall
– Kris
2 days ago
Inability to control the depth of the nail gun which is made for attaching hard thick boards together not soft thin drywall
– Kris
2 days ago
4
4
And the classic nail-pop that inevitably follows.
– bib
2 days ago
And the classic nail-pop that inevitably follows.
– bib
2 days ago
add a comment |
1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
up vote
12
down vote
accepted
Nobody uses a pneumatic nailer for drywall. And in a world where shortcuts are revered, that has to tell you something.
You know this already, but screws are the gold standard. They stay put and they pull the drywall as close to framing as possible. Badly set screws can pop, but properly set ones don't.
Nails were common in the past, but they were usually ring shank (for holding power) and with a slightly bigger head than a framing nail. (They also had a propensity to pop as framing dried out, in spite of the fancy ring shank.)
If you had to use nails, the trick is to set them just slightly below the plane of the paper without cutting through the paper. The dent from a hammer made this work. A pneumatic nail is either going to be set too deep (ripping the paper, and being out of the way of the taping knife) or set too high (not ripping the paper, but being in the way of the taper). There's really no way to get the dimple you need with an air nailer.
If you are seriously only looking at a drill, get an impact driver. You'll get way more control driving screws. (And impacts are great for a lot of other stuff as well.) If you have a ton of rock to put up, consider getting an actual drywall screwgun.
You can very likely rent a screwgun from a local shop as well.
– ratchet freak
17 hours ago
add a comment |
1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
12
down vote
accepted
Nobody uses a pneumatic nailer for drywall. And in a world where shortcuts are revered, that has to tell you something.
You know this already, but screws are the gold standard. They stay put and they pull the drywall as close to framing as possible. Badly set screws can pop, but properly set ones don't.
Nails were common in the past, but they were usually ring shank (for holding power) and with a slightly bigger head than a framing nail. (They also had a propensity to pop as framing dried out, in spite of the fancy ring shank.)
If you had to use nails, the trick is to set them just slightly below the plane of the paper without cutting through the paper. The dent from a hammer made this work. A pneumatic nail is either going to be set too deep (ripping the paper, and being out of the way of the taping knife) or set too high (not ripping the paper, but being in the way of the taper). There's really no way to get the dimple you need with an air nailer.
If you are seriously only looking at a drill, get an impact driver. You'll get way more control driving screws. (And impacts are great for a lot of other stuff as well.) If you have a ton of rock to put up, consider getting an actual drywall screwgun.
You can very likely rent a screwgun from a local shop as well.
– ratchet freak
17 hours ago
add a comment |
up vote
12
down vote
accepted
Nobody uses a pneumatic nailer for drywall. And in a world where shortcuts are revered, that has to tell you something.
You know this already, but screws are the gold standard. They stay put and they pull the drywall as close to framing as possible. Badly set screws can pop, but properly set ones don't.
Nails were common in the past, but they were usually ring shank (for holding power) and with a slightly bigger head than a framing nail. (They also had a propensity to pop as framing dried out, in spite of the fancy ring shank.)
If you had to use nails, the trick is to set them just slightly below the plane of the paper without cutting through the paper. The dent from a hammer made this work. A pneumatic nail is either going to be set too deep (ripping the paper, and being out of the way of the taping knife) or set too high (not ripping the paper, but being in the way of the taper). There's really no way to get the dimple you need with an air nailer.
If you are seriously only looking at a drill, get an impact driver. You'll get way more control driving screws. (And impacts are great for a lot of other stuff as well.) If you have a ton of rock to put up, consider getting an actual drywall screwgun.
You can very likely rent a screwgun from a local shop as well.
– ratchet freak
17 hours ago
add a comment |
up vote
12
down vote
accepted
up vote
12
down vote
accepted
Nobody uses a pneumatic nailer for drywall. And in a world where shortcuts are revered, that has to tell you something.
You know this already, but screws are the gold standard. They stay put and they pull the drywall as close to framing as possible. Badly set screws can pop, but properly set ones don't.
Nails were common in the past, but they were usually ring shank (for holding power) and with a slightly bigger head than a framing nail. (They also had a propensity to pop as framing dried out, in spite of the fancy ring shank.)
If you had to use nails, the trick is to set them just slightly below the plane of the paper without cutting through the paper. The dent from a hammer made this work. A pneumatic nail is either going to be set too deep (ripping the paper, and being out of the way of the taping knife) or set too high (not ripping the paper, but being in the way of the taper). There's really no way to get the dimple you need with an air nailer.
If you are seriously only looking at a drill, get an impact driver. You'll get way more control driving screws. (And impacts are great for a lot of other stuff as well.) If you have a ton of rock to put up, consider getting an actual drywall screwgun.
Nobody uses a pneumatic nailer for drywall. And in a world where shortcuts are revered, that has to tell you something.
You know this already, but screws are the gold standard. They stay put and they pull the drywall as close to framing as possible. Badly set screws can pop, but properly set ones don't.
Nails were common in the past, but they were usually ring shank (for holding power) and with a slightly bigger head than a framing nail. (They also had a propensity to pop as framing dried out, in spite of the fancy ring shank.)
If you had to use nails, the trick is to set them just slightly below the plane of the paper without cutting through the paper. The dent from a hammer made this work. A pneumatic nail is either going to be set too deep (ripping the paper, and being out of the way of the taping knife) or set too high (not ripping the paper, but being in the way of the taper). There's really no way to get the dimple you need with an air nailer.
If you are seriously only looking at a drill, get an impact driver. You'll get way more control driving screws. (And impacts are great for a lot of other stuff as well.) If you have a ton of rock to put up, consider getting an actual drywall screwgun.
edited yesterday
manassehkatz
4,741624
4,741624
answered yesterday
Aloysius Defenestrate
8,65411224
8,65411224
You can very likely rent a screwgun from a local shop as well.
– ratchet freak
17 hours ago
add a comment |
You can very likely rent a screwgun from a local shop as well.
– ratchet freak
17 hours ago
You can very likely rent a screwgun from a local shop as well.
– ratchet freak
17 hours ago
You can very likely rent a screwgun from a local shop as well.
– ratchet freak
17 hours ago
add a comment |
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5
Inability to control the depth of the nail gun which is made for attaching hard thick boards together not soft thin drywall
– Kris
2 days ago
4
And the classic nail-pop that inevitably follows.
– bib
2 days ago